Kawasaki Z400 ER400 (2018-2023) Maintenance Schedule and Service Intervals
This is the full maintenance schedule and service intervals for the Kawasaki Z400 (2018+) — when to change your air filter, spark plugs, and more. It’s also known as the ER400 or the Z400 ABS, though ABS is standard. This comes from the manual for the Z400, and also from other sources.
The Z400 is the successor to the Kawasaki Z300, but it is a superior motorcycle in every way. It’s more powerful AND it’s lighter. It shares a basic platform with the Kawasaki Ninja 400, but it is the naked version — so it’s more suited to everyday riding, and easier to work on (fewer fairing panels to remove).
The core of the Kawasaki Z400 is a 399-cc liquid-cooled parallel twin. It’s a thoroughly modern engine — with dual over-head cams and four valves per cylinder, and with a modestly high compression ratio of 11.5:1.
The Z400, like its Ninja stablemate, makes peak power of 33 kW (45 hp) at 10000 rpm, and peak torque of 37 Nm (50 ft-lb) at 8000 rpm. So it has plenty of pull, but you need to rev it up to get there.
Final drive for the Kawasaki Z400 is via a 6-speed transmission and a chain drive.
From 2024, the Z400 has been replaced by the Kawasaki Z500, with a larger 451 cc engine but otherwise many of the same components.
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Kawasaki Z400 Service Intervals
The basic service intervals for the Kawasaki Z400 are either every 7600 miles (12000 km) OR ever year. At any of those periods, change the oil and filter, and check the schedule to see what you need to adjust inspect, lubricate, or replace.
The major valve clearance inspection interval is a generous 24000 km (15000 miles). The Z400’s parallel twin engine is easy to service, too, as there’s just one cylinder head, and no need to drop the oil to do a valve service.
The Z400 has a liquid-cooled engine, so make sure you keep the coolant fresh, along with the brake fluid, replacing it every 2 years.
What you need to service your Kawasaki Z400
Servicing your Z400 is even easier than servicing your Ninja 400, as you have fewer fairing panels to remove! You just need a bunch of basic motorcycle maintenance tools, some floor space, and of course the following consumables.
Part | Kawasaki Ninja 400 & Z400 Spec |
---|---|
Oil | You need 2.0L (2.1 US qt) of SAE 10W-40 engine oil “with API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rating”, preferably Kawasaki 10W-40 Engine Oil, or another high-grade synthetic like Motul 7100 10W-40. Don’t over-torque the drain bolt (spec is 30 Nm/22 lb-ft per the manual) — use a torque wrench if you don’t have experience with how much torque is enough. |
Oil filter | Oil filter is part 16097-0008, or you can use Hiflofiltro HF303RC. Torque for oil filter is 17.5 Nm (12.9 ft-lb) (use a torque wrench, and it’s easier on the aftermarket one) |
Front brake pads | Genuine part number for front brake pads is 43082-0081 for Ninja or Z 300/400. Get double-sintered EBC brake pads for better bite and wear — code FA197HH. |
Rear brake pads | Genuine part number for rear brake pads is 43082-0128 (or same as front… same pads!). Get double-sintered EBC brake pads for better bite and wear — code FA197HH. |
Spark plugs | NGK LMAR9G, with a spark plug gap of 0.7-0.8mm, torqued to 13 Nm or 9 ft-lb (use a torque wrench) |
Air filter | Use the K&N air filter KA-4018. |
Cable lubricant | Remember to lubricate your clutch cable (and brake cables if you have them) with a cable lubricant. Protect All Cable Life is a good general-purpose lubricant. |
Chain lubricant | The chain needs to be lubricated every 600 km/400 miles (or more, if it gets wet/dirty). Motul chain paste is cheap and well-loved. |
Brake fluid | Spec is to use DOT-4 brake fluid. |
Coolant | Use nitrate-free, phosphate-free, ethylene glycol-based coolant with anti-corrosion inhibitors, e.g. Valvoline Zerex G05 |
Grease | Use a lithium soap-based grease for all the important greasing points. |
Maintenance schedule for the Kawasaki Z400
Below is the full maintenance schedule for the Z400.
In the original manual, some items are mentioned as “dealer inspection”. Things like checking the idle speed or the coolant level. However, the bike is easy to service — it’s up to you if you want to take it to a dealer or not.
For clarity, we’ve also separated out the “annual inspection” items from the regular items that need replacement less often (other than engine oil).
km x 1000 | 1 | 12 | 24 | 36 | 48 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
mi x 1000 | 0.6 | 7.6 | 15.2 | 22.8 | 30.4 | Every |
Perform annual inspection (see below) | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Year |
Engine oil — Replace (Kawasaki 10W-40 Engine oil) | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Year |
Oil filter — Replace (HF303RC) | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Year |
Spark plug (NGK LMAR9G) — Replace | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Air cleaner element — Replace (K&N KA-4018) | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | More often if riding in dust / off-road | |
Valve clearances — Inspect | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
Idle speed — Inspect | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | |
Engine vacuum synchronization — Check | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Fuel filter — Replace | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
Fuel hose — Replace | 5 years | |||||
Evaporative emission control system (if fitted) | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
Coolant, coolant hoses, and O-rings — Replace all | ✓ | 3 years | ||||
Air suction system — Inspect | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Drive chain wear — Inspect | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Drive chain guide wear — Inspect | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Brake fluid (front and rear) — Replace (Castrol DOT 4) | ✓ | ✓ | 2 years | |||
Brake hoses — Replace | 4 years | |||||
Rubber parts of brake master cylinder and caliper – Replace | ✓ | 4 years | ||||
Rear suspension — Lubricate | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
Steering stem bearings — Lubricate | ✓ | ✓ | 2 years |
Annual inspection
Below is the list of maintenance items for the Kawasaki Z400 — things to check / lubricate every service (per the schedule above).
Kawasaki Z400 Annual Inspection |
---|
Throttle control system — Inspect (play, smooth return, and no drag) |
Brake system — Inspect function |
Brake operation (effectiveness, play, no drag) |
Brake fluid level — Check / top-up (Castrol DOT 4) |
Brake pad wear (not as critical at break-in) Inspect more often if riding in dusty / wet conditions, or aggressively |
Brake light switch operation — Check |
Fuel system — Inspect (no leaks, kinks, damaged hoses) |
Cooling system — Inspect (no leaks, kinks) |
Coolant level — Inspect, top up as necessary (Zerex G05) |
Clutch operation — Inspect (play, engagement, disengagement) |
Wheels and tires — Check condition (no dents, damage) |
Wheel bearings — Check for damage / looseness |
Tire air pressure — Check / adjust (See specs below) |
Suspension system — Check for leaks, smooth operation Not required at break-in service |
Steering play — Check for smooth operation, no notchiness |
Electrical system — Check all lights, signals, and switches work |
Chassis parts — Lubricate |
Condition of bolts, nuts, and fasteners — Check, tighten as necessary |
Maintaining Your Chain on the Kawasaki Z400
The Kawasaki Z400 is a classic everyday rider, so it’s important to maintain your chain on the Z400, as it gets ridden in all kinds of conditions.
Use a good-quality chain lubricant like Motul chain paste, or a Motul chain care kit which comes with a couple of handy tools to maintain the chain.
Kawasaki recommends the following chain maintenance schedule:
Chain maintenance item | Every |
---|---|
Check drive chain lubrication condition, lubricating if necessary (Motul chain paste) | 400 mi / 600 km |
Check drive chain slack, adjusting if necessary Standard chain deflection in loosest part of bottom chain: 20-30mm | 600 mi / 1000 km |
Check drive chain wear | Service |
Notes:
- Do these items (checking/adjusting slack, and checking/applying lubrication) more often if you ride your Z400 in dusty or rainy conditions.
- Always lubricate the chain after washing the motorcycle.
If you find the drive chain slack is outside the normal parameters, you have to adjust the slack.
- Put the motorcycle on its side-stand and in neutral.
- Loosen the rear axle.
- Loosen the lock nuts for the chain adjusters.
- Adjust the chain little by little, ensuring the adjusters remain aligned (the same notches on each side of the axle). Keep checking the chain tension.
- When the tension is correct, tighten the axle (98 Nm / 71 lb-ft) and the adjuster lock nuts.
Tyre sizes and pressures for the Kawasaki Z400
The manual specifies the following tire sizes, pressures, and brands (that it ships with, though people rarely stick with them).
Tyre | Size | Tyre pressure (cold) | Brand(s) shipped with |
---|---|---|---|
Front | 110/70R17 M/C 54H | 200 kPa/28 psi | DUNLOP, SPORTMAX, GPR -300F N |
Rear | 150/60R17 M/C 66H | 225 kPa/32 psi | DUNLOP, SPORTMAX, GPR -300 N |
About the Kawasaki Z400
The Kawasaki Z400 was first released in 2018 (launched a few months earlier), replacing the Kawasaki Z300, which was a similar motorcycle (a standard version of its stablemate the Ninja 300).
Like its stablemate, the Ninja 400, the Z400 is a very well-loved beginner motorcycle. It’s not as favoured a track weapon as the Ninja 400 — fairings are useful for the higher speeds, especially with the relatively lower power output of the engine (compared to everyone else’s liter-bikes on the track!)
The 399cc water-cooled parallel twin in the Z400 doesn’t make a terribly inspiring sound, as you’d expect from a small engine with a 180-degree crank. It’s not a bike you’d bother putting an aftermarket exhaust onto.
But what the engine lacks in character it makes up for in revviness and willingness to fly way up the tachometer to high RPMs. This is where the Z400 is different to competitors like the Honda CB500F. On paper, they have similar specs in terms of power. But the Z400 likes to rev — it puts out its peak power at 9,940 rpm, and peak torque at 8,270 rpm. This gives it a lively feeling and is a bike you can really get a lot out of in everyday riding without breaking the speed limit.
On top of that, the Kawasaki Z400 is very lightweight – in fact, lighter than the 300 cc bike that it replaces. You feel this as soon as you’re on the bike. Get it to race spec and you can expect to drop even more.
The Z400 is a great everyday motorcycle, too. It is comfortable, with high handlebars that only lean you forward a little. It comes with ABS as standard, unlike the Ninja 400 which asks you to pay a little more for it. And the Z400 is slightly cheaper. So if you don’t need (or want) those fairings, then opt for the Z.
Suspension and braking on the Z400 are simple and competent. There’s a single front disc, and only preload adjustability, but it gets the job done.
The Kawasaki Z400 is easy to maintain, too. Most maintenance intervals just ask you to “check” things — the only things to replace regularly are the oil, and periodically some of the other vital fluids like brake fluid. In fact, the Z400 is such a great everyday sport bike that many people downsize to it from bigger bikes.
Just keep the fluids up to date, check the valves, replace the brake pads and the chain occasionally, and it’ll go forever… until you crash it.
Reference — Screenshots from the Manual for the Kawasaki Z400
The above maintenance schedule was transcribed from the manual for the Z400.
You can download it from Kawasaki’s website here.